FAQ · Straight answers from an installer
The insulation questions homeowners actually ask.
Honest answers to the questions people ring me about: cellulose vs batts, real R-value, rats, spray foam, fire and who turns up to your roof. No sales spin, just what I’d tell a mate.
I’ve been installing insulation since 1986 and made it myself in Tiaro for most of that. Pick a question below, each one links to a fuller answer, or skip straight to the eight most common ones, answered right here on this page.
Most people who ring me have only ever heard of batts and want to know why I keep banging on about cellulose. Fair enough. The questions below are the real ones I get on the phone and at the roof hatch, grouped so you can find yours fast. If your question isn’t here, tell me with the thumbs-down box at the bottom and I’ll get you a straight answer. The bigger picture lives on why cellulose is the only product I’d use in my own home, and you can read what our customers say for the real-world version.
Cellulose & performance
The product I recommend, and the things people most want to know about how it behaves over the life of the house.
Why an R5 batt isn't really an R5 in your roof
The R-rating is the lab number for a gap-free fit, and batts always have gaps. What actually ends up in your ceiling.
Read the full answerDoes cellulose settle, sag or grow mould over time?
Loose-fill does settle if it's under-filled, so we install to a specified settled density. The honest version, with the CSIRO line.
Read the full answerDo whirlybirds and roof vents work once you're insulated?
The anti-upsell answer: the NCC only requires roof venting in the cold southern zones, not SE-QLD Zone 2.
Read the full answerWhy does mould keep growing on my ceiling?
Mould grows on the cold strips where insulation is missing and air condenses, and full-contact cellulose removes them. The thermal-gap mechanism.
Read the full answerIs cellulose too heavy, and will it crack my plaster?
No, it's a light, even spread across every joist, not a point load. Why a roof leak weighs far more than the insulation ever does.
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Heat, comfort & your home
The everyday questions about living with insulation: air-con, garages, storage, bulkheads and even the TV aerial.
Should I get air-con before or after insulating?
Insulate first: you may need a smaller unit, and whatever you fit runs less and cools more. Insulation does the heavy lifting.
Read the full answerWhy is my garage hotter since I insulated the house?
The garage roof always cooked, and the cooler, sealed house just makes you notice it. Insulate the garage ceiling too.
Read the full answerWhat are 'in-ceiling walls' and bulkheads on my quote?
Internal walls and dropped bulkheads open into the hot roof space and let heat and noise bypass your ceiling insulation. We fill them.
Read the full answerI want to store things in my roof: what's best?
Walking on loose-fill compresses it and loses R-value. A raised, boarded platform above the insulation is the fix.
Read the full answerWill insulation affect my TV aerial reception?
Paper-based cellulose doesn't block the signal. It's foil-backed sarking that can, so a roof-cavity aerial may be the real issue.
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R-value & climate
What R-value you actually need for a South-East Queensland roof, and why more isn't always better.
Can you insulate a roof that already has solar panels?
Yes, pump-in cellulose works around an existing solar setup without lifting panels. How we handle the wiring.
Read the full answerIs sarking, anticon or reflective foil worth it?
Reflective foil needs a clean air gap to do anything: yourhome.gov.au says its value 'diminishes towards zero' if dusty or in contact.
Read the full answerShould I insulate during the build or wait?
When it's smarter to pump cellulose into a new build, and when to leave the ceiling open for the sparky first.
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Batts & rivals
Cellulose against the products you've actually heard of (fibreglass and polyester batts) and the things that go wrong with them.
Can I just buy the insulation and install it myself?
Why the contractor matters more than the material, and where DIY batts genuinely make sense versus where they don't.
Read the full answerShould I remove the old insulation or top over it?
When old batts have to come out, and when we can simply pump fresh cellulose over the top. The deciding factors.
Read the full answerIs fibreglass safe if I'm on tank water?
What washes off a fibreglass roof into a rainwater tank, and why this question comes up so often in rural SE-QLD.
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Spray foam
The questions behind the spray-foam regret stories (moisture, removal and off-gassing) answered from the Australian government sources, not the hype.
Does spray foam trap moisture in a Queensland roof?
Closed-cell foam has low vapour permeance (ABCB Condensation Handbook), and in a humid SE-QLD roof that's a real moisture concern.
Read the full answerCan spray foam be removed once it's in?
Why it's difficult and largely irreversible: it bonds to tiles, joists, pipes and wiring, complicating future inspection.
Read the full answerDoes spray foam off-gas or smell?
The honest answer: the concern is the install and cure phase; cured foam is largely inert. What that means for you.
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Trust & process
How not to get burnt by an insulation mob: who turns up, how you're priced, and how you can see the work you'll never climb up to check.
Do you use subcontractors, or who actually turns up?
A Comfort Zone franchise owner-operator running their own family business to our systems, not an unbranded van of cheap subbies, and every job is photographed and the photos checked.
Read the full answerWhy are you dearer than the cheapest quote?
Value, not price: full-contact cellulose, no middleman markup because we make it ourselves, and a guarantee you can pass on.
Read the full answerShould I pay an insulation deposit upfront?
Why we don't chase a big deposit 'for materials': the product's already ours from the Tiaro factory; you pay on completion.
Read the full answerWho actually makes cellulose insulation in Queensland?
We're one of the very few remaining cellulose manufacturers in Australia, and the only one we know of still making it here in QLD.
Read the full answerWhat to do on the day we install your insulation
Booked in? Here's what to expect (truck and power access, downlights, payment on completion) and the 5 things that make the day easy.
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Safety
The safety questions that matter most in a real roof: fire, downlights, rats and insurance.
Is cellulose insulation fire-resistant?
Borax-treated, shown to slow fire spread (Sustainability Victoria, AS 1530.1). What the blowtorch test actually shows.
Read the full answerIs insulation around downlights a fire risk?
Packed against a hot downlight, yes, so we keep the required clearance around every fitting and photograph those spots.
Read the full answerRats in your insulation? The $1,000 Rodent Reward
No insulation is fully rat-proof, but rats can't nest in dense-packed cellulose the way they do in batts, and we back it with a $1,000 reward to the home owner.
Read the full answerCan bad insulation void my home insurance?
Non-compliant work around downlights and wiring can be a problem. How a properly installed, photographed job protects you.
Read the full answerMy electrician said don't get pump-in insulation: why?
The real concern is buried cabling and downlights: how we keep clearances, don't bury junction boxes, and let a sparky still work the roof.
Read the full answerBean-bag beads or spray foam in my roof: a fire risk?
Loose polystyrene and some foams are combustible; borate-treated cellulose is shown to slow fire spread. The honest, measured comparison.
Read the full answerAsbestos in your roof: what it looks like, and is it safe?
How to spot a 'Super 6' fibro roof, what you must never do to it, and how we insulate safely underneath without disturbing it.
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Read this before you book anyone
How not to get ripped off by an insulation company in Brisbane
After 40 years I’ve seen every trick in this trade: subbies in unbranded vans, fake “electrical re-route” line items, big deposits that vanish, half-filled roofs you can’t see. This is the full guide to spotting a dodgy mob before they get on your roof, and the questions to ask so you don’t get burnt.
Read the rip-off guideAnswered right here
The eight questions I get asked most.
A quick answer to each of the most common ones, and every figure here links through to its authoritative source on the fuller pages. Open one to read it.
Is cellulose better than fibreglass batts?+
In my opinion yes, and after installing insulation since 1986 it's the only product I'd use in my own home. The big reason is gaps: pumped cellulose lays as one seamless blanket with no gaps, while batts have to be cut into every bay and leave gaps from day one, and gaps wreck an R-value. Cellulose is also borax-treated, so insects won't live in it and it has been shown to slow fire spread. Fibreglass is cheaper to buy, but you only insulate once.
Why isn't an R5 batt really an R5 once it's in my roof?+
An R-rating is the lab number for a perfectly-fitted product with no gaps, and batts always have gaps. Sustainability Victoria's Energy Smart Housing Manual shows the effective R-value collapsing as more of the ceiling is left uninsulated, and notes that even a 5% gap drops an R3.5 batt's effective R-value to about R2.1, roughly a 40% loss (Sustainability Victoria, p.63). When batts are cut into every bay and squeezed into hot corners, shortcuts happen, so the R5 on the packet isn't the result in your roof. Pumped cellulose has no gaps, so what you pay for is what you get.
Do rats and mice nest in cellulose like they do in batts?+
No insulation is fully rat-proof, and anyone who tells you it is, is having you on. But borate-treated cellulose is a dense, packed blanket rats can't fluff into a cosy nest the way they do with soft batts. The insects rats feed on can't survive in it either, so there's nothing in there for them. We're so confident rodents won't nest in it that we back it with a $1,000 reward, paid to the home owner if a nest is ever found built in a roof we've pumped, and in 6,000-plus roofs we've never seen a rat nest in our cellulose.
Why are you dearer than the cheapest insulation quote?+
Fibreglass batts are the cheapest to buy, and that's the only thing they've got going for them. You'd be lucky if you weren't just buying trouble for the future. For a little extra the cellulose gives you full contact across every inch of the ceiling, no gaps, borax for fire and pests, and a transferable Life-of-House guarantee. We make the cellulose ourselves at our Tiaro factory, so there's no middleman markup. You only insulate once, so it pays to get it right the first time.
Do you use subcontractors, or who actually turns up?+
We don't sub the work out to the cheapest bidder. The job you book is done by a Comfort Zone franchise partner, an owner-operator running their own family business to our systems, training and quality standards, not an unbranded van of per-square-metre subbies who don't know what was agreed and move on to the next job. Because they're building their own reputation in your area, they've got real skin in the game to do it right. It's the same system on every job: trained to one standard, our installation checklists followed, and every job photographed with the photos checked before you're invoiced, so the work you can never climb up to inspect is on record.
Is cellulose insulation a fire risk?+
Cellulose is treated with borax, a natural mineral salt. Sustainability Victoria states that cellulose treated with a borax fire retardant means flame won't spread, tested under AS 1530.1, and the CSIRO describes cellulose as recycled paper combined with fire-retardant chemicals. Hold a blowtorch to a handful and it chars and glows but won't carry a flame. By contrast, fibreglass batts melt away in a fire. The separate risk to manage is insulation packed against a hot downlight, so it's part of our system to keep the required clearance and photograph those spots.
Should I pay a big deposit before the job?+
Be careful of anyone who wants a large deposit 'to buy materials' and then goes quiet. Deposit-then-disappear is one of the most common complaints in this trade. We make our own cellulose at our Tiaro factory, so the product is already ours. You get a fixed written quote and pay on satisfactory completion, after you've seen the finished, photographed job. We're an established Queensland family manufacturer, not a fly-by-night ute-and-ladder crew.
Do whirlybirds and roof vents work if I've got insulation?+
We don't upsell whirlybirds on commission. The National Construction Code only requires roof-space ventilation in the cold southern climate zones (6 to 8), not here in South-East Queensland, which is Climate Zone 2. Once your ceiling is properly insulated to the right R-value, vents on top of that gain you little, and they can leak or fail. I'd rather spend your money getting the ceiling right than selling you a fix you don't need for this climate.
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