It is like the “would you like fries with that” of the insulation world and most reps are very happy to take your money. Honestly we don't make any money out of not selling stuff when customers ask for it but they do not work and they will cause problems in a storm. It is your decision though and yes we can supply and install a couple of roof vents for you while we are there doing your insulation.  

We make and extra $50 per roof vent but they will cause you trouble eventually and they are of no benefit after you have a quality insulation installed. The NCC  states that if you have adequate roof ventilation (one 300mm mechanical vent per 70 meters of roof space plus 2 eave vents) you will get a 0.47 R value benefit in summer and a Negative 0.47 R value in winter. So actually roof vents will work against your insulation in winter. The main reason we don’t install roof vents is because, they will leak or make a lot of a noise eventually. The bearings ware out and then the tops can fall off some models leaving a big hole in your roof. After the first summer storm we get flooded with enquirers to fix the noisy of leaking roof vents, I actually often just remove the vents while I am on site doing the insulation.

Half the time Roof vents like Whirly birds are just not installed properly by DIY people or tradesmen often install roof vents at a angle because they do not know these simple tricks to getting it right.  Although installing them properly does not make them work much better, it will often stop your new roof vent from leaking water into your roof from the day they are installed. Have a look at these vents that were installed by a qualified builder (Builders are not roofers).

If your roof does not leak now, you are asking us to cut a 300mm round hole in the top of your roof sheets or remove a tile and install a flimsy aluminium coke can in its place. Sure they are tested in wind tunnels to speeds of 100 kms per hour but they don't throw sticks at them in the wind tunnel and if anything hits them including hail, they will be damages and possibly leak.

The fact is that a well installed quality insulation will stop 100% of the heat transfer though your ceiling and so venting your roof space will just make it more likely that other animals like rats and mice can like there. I would go so far as saying that it is unethical to sell roof vents with a quality insulation.

I do not recommend any mechanical or electric roof vents be installed with your roof insulation, they just cause trouble in the future.

Less is more when it comes to siliconing down a roof vent and in this video I give you a couple of tips for how and where to put silicon so that you do not actually cause your roof vent to leak by putting silicon where it shouldn't be.

R Value, stands for the Thermal Resistance Rating of the insulation product and is used to measure how much insulation you need in a home.

The R value is a some what arbitrary number just like the SPF factor of sun screen. Nobody really knows what SPF is but we all know (At least in Australia) that we should have at least SPF 15 plus. We the R Value for your home insulation is a bit the same. The government stipulates the correct R value you need for your home insulation in the NCC for your climate zone. 

Then it is up to the contractors installing your insulation to make sure that they put that amount of insulation into your ceiling. Basically the thicker the insulation the higher the R Value but their is a few little lies hidden in the details that can be very deceptive and cause customers to buy products that are totally wrong for they home.

The problem is that Labelling requirements for manufacturers of insulation in Australia do not require Manufacturers to comply with the same standards when it comes to the R value they put on the pack. Basically there are 3 ways a manufacturer can consider the R value of their product and so the value on the pack may be nothing to do with the R value of the insulation batts you are buying.

The following are all Valid ways to label your R value when it comes to selling home insulation.

1. The Actual tested R value of the product you are selling (You might think that would be the only allowable way to label insulation packs)

2. The Total system Value of the insulation when in a "Typical" roof ? - Wow - that could mean anything. Basically if your house was built between 2005 and may 2020, the manufacturer could print on the packet the R Value of their product to include everything else in that building.... Yep thats Right I could sell a builder a sheet of black plastic with no thermal resistance at all and say that its Total system value when installed is R1.7. All because with my "Typical installation" I am allowed to add the R Value of all the other products between the living space and the sun including the Tiles, Cavity space, ventilation, plaster and even the colour of the roof to the system value of my sheet of black plastic......  Now the requirements of the NCC did not change but as most builders don't like reading, they were confused and often thought that the R value on the pack was the Value of the product being installed.

3. It could be tested only for Radiant heat or only Convected heat - As there in no Radiant heat in your Roof it makes no sense to test home insulation like this or put labels stating only a radiant R Value.

Thankfully in May 2020 the new NCC 2019 states that manufacturers can no longer use a R Value that is called "Total R Value" or "System R Values", as they are no longer allowed by law in insulation labels. Mind you, that does not mean that manufacturers have complied with this requirement because it is up to the builder to know what the real R Value rating of the product he is using is. This is fine for builders who know the standards have changed (All my mates at school who loved to read became builders, that is sarcasm in case you missed it)   but my experience is that most builders did not understand that "Total system Values" were a lie in the first place so why would they understand that they should make sure the manufacturer is no using the old standard on their R value descriptions. 

The insulation industry can be very confusing and a lot of the reason is just because since 2006 in QLD there has been no requirement to have any training to install insulation or sell it. This has lead to an industry where now some installers have been doing the job for 10 -15 years and never been taught how to do it properly. I even read some of the broachers from big companies and I am sure they are not written by qualified people either as they seam to misunderstand some key concepts and regulations.

The other issue is that the NCC (National Construction Code) and the Electrical safety code have conflicting information in them and so electricians who are not normally privy of the NCC tell customers things that are not allowed to be done with insulation in the NCC. Where there is a conflict in the codes the NCC is the overriding code to be used.

Please don't trust your home insulation to the advice of the doggy websites that pretend to by unbiased, A lot of them are fully funded by multi national batt insulation manufacturers. ICANZ is a example of this type of biased advice that is of particularly low quality.  Have a look at the article that the Australian newspaper wrote on the corrupt representations of ICANZ 

They do not even mention Bulk fill insulation and they still use the out dated and now illegal Total System Values when talking about insulation, I just hope they are still not labelling their packs of batts that way but they probably are. I am an installer and my advice comes from 30 years of using all kinds of insulation products and being in roofs with them after 20 years.

Insulating your home is almost the single greatest thing you can do to increase its energy efficiency rating. To achieve the best rating your walls, floor, and ceiling should be insulated with a quality insulation like Cellulose Fibre.

Even retro fitting an existing home with ceiling insulation can add an additional 2 stars to the homes energy consumption rating. This in turn means that the average insulated home can save more than $300 per annum in heating and cooling costs. Buying insulation for your home will actually pay for itself in a matter of a few years and help the environment by reducing your carbon foot print.

Insulation can make an air conditioner or heater more than 40% more efficient, insulated homes also do not need as big of an air conditioner to cool the same area. It is very smart to insulate your home before you air condition it, as you will even save money by buying a smaller unit. The money you save in some cases may even be enough to completely pay for insulating your home.

Most people think they can save some money by buying the batts and just paying for the installation. The other very important consideration is the True cost. 

People think that by buying the batts themselves they can avoid paying a tradesman and so might save some money. That may be true if the customer could buy the insulation at the same wholesale price that I pay. In other words I pay about 30% less than most retail companies sell batts for. That saving helps pay my costs to install the batts for a customer.  

The problem with this is that no professional company will want to install your insulation batts as they buy them wholesale and you will be buying at retail prices. So the margin of the labour to install the job is normally subsidised by the retail markup on the batts themselves. 

Effectively this will make the cost of the insulation job dearer witch is why we do not quote for labour only normally. Of course you may get a guy off gumtree to put them in with no training or insurance for a few hundred dollars but what if he hurts himself, breaks your roof or just leaves 1% gaps and takes 30% of the benefit of your insulation away (Making your R3 batts effectively R2 batts). Worst still He could leave 5% Gaps and reduce your batts effectiveness by as much as 70% according to the national Construction code. 

Find out what tricks and tips your installer should know to get the job done right

You also have to consider the cost of delivery because that will be extra too if you buy them yourself. In most cases you will pay delivery for the batts at a premium price because batts are bulky. If I am coming to your place to install batts I need to bring ladders and equipment so my quote to install them does not need to include much extra to pick up the batts on the way.

Often I have had a customer buy the batts and then ask me for a quote to install them only to find out that it is actually 30% dearer than if they had just asked me to supply the batts and the installation together.

IF you own the batts, Maybe you got them for free, you would still be much better off to sell them in the paper and put the money towards buying a quality Pumped in Cellulose fibre insulation product, installed with no gaps and guaranteed for life.

I often get asked if their is any benefit to insulating the verandahs at the same time as getting the ceiling insulation done in your home. Most sales people will jump at the chance to sell you some more “stuff” to customers but these are the factors you need to consider before spending your money on verandah insulation and getting little or no benefit in some cases. 

By the way here I am only talking about Veranda or porch areas that share the same roof space as the main house or they have a ceiling lining in place already making them suitable for retro fitting insulation.

1. 1. 1. Is your veranda enclosed or built in on at least 3 sides?, this will tend to trap airflow more and stop the heat rising out over the eaves to escape.

      2. Do you get mould on the ceiling of your verandah, Insulation can help to reduce the mould on a ceiling and even stop it. If you have mould on the ceiling and you can see straight lines through the mould where the roof timbers are above (this is because the roof timber insulates the ceiling and stops the heat that mould needs to grow), then insulation will almost certainly be the solution to stop the mould growth once you have insulated it and cleaned the existing mould off.

If the answer to both of these question is no, then there will most likely be very little if any benefit in you insulating your verandahs. 

If your Veranda is in common use might be the exception to this rule because when you insulate the main house area on the ceiling it traps more heat in the roof space. This actually make the roof hotter than it was before you insulated the ceiling. Now your roof space being hotter is not a problem and has some advantages for helping to stop critters living in it. However that extra heat will come though into any attached or shared roof cavity areas that are not insulated like Verandas and patios. In this situation it may be more beneficial to insulated them at the same time as the rest of the roof.

Of Course the benefit of doing it at the same time is normally that it will be cheaper per meter than if you ask a company to come back to do a small area latter. For instance it normally costs about $400-$600 to include a small 20 square meter patio area while we are there but it can cost as much as $800 to $1000 if we have to make a special trip another day.

We can insulate any existing internal or external wall with pumped in Cellulose fibre insulation or Jet max cabon plus (Fibre glass) But first you should make sure your heat in the home is actually coming from the western wall.

If in the afternoon about 3-4 pm you can put your hand on the plaster on the inside of your western wall and it is much warmer than the plaster from a internal wall at about the same height then you may benefit from having the wall pumped with JetStream Carbon Plus wall insulation (Even though I hate Fibreglass products, there is a small chance that the cellulose could wick water though a brick external wall but the pump in fibreglass will not). First though I would check your ceiling at the same time by standing on a ladder and putting you hand on the ceiling. You will need to check a few spots and it does not matter how hot it is, you are more interested in the temperature difference between the bottom of an internal wall and the ceiling or the wall you want insulated. If the ceiling is cooler than the external wall, that indicates the heat is coming from the wall. If it is about the same temperature or the external wall is cooler than the ceiling then it is more likely that most of the heat is coming from the ceiling. I would expect the bottom of the internal wall to represent the temperature difference that could be achieved when both the external wall and ceiling are insulated properly.

Ceiling insulation represents 70% of the heat gain or loss from a home with walls and windows about 20% and the floor at 10%. This is a basic guideline and of course the orientation of your house and colour of the walls can make a big difference. This is why cost wise you get much more bang for your buck to check that the ceiling is done right first before you go to the expense of insulating the walls

To insulate the external walls on a brick and tile home we can lift a tile above the wall top plate cavity and about every 3rd title around the edge. Using a special pipe, poke the pipe into the cavity between the brick and the timber frame of the internal wall and pump the cavity full of the pump in Fibre glass insulation

This is a no destructive process on a normal brick and tile home but if you have weatherboards western wall or the hardy board that needs insulation the only way to insulate the wall is to drill holes on the inside and pump it in from inside. We will need to drill a row of 2 or 3 holes down the wall and every 450mm across the wall. So a 5m long wall might have 10 rows of 2 or 3 holes which means about 20 to 30 holes in the plaster. These can easily be fixed by most competent plasterers but the repair costs are your responsibility. Depending on access the holes will be cut with a hole saw and be about 80mm round.

Raked roofs (Normally has about 150mm gap) and exposed beam (Normally 40mm gap), these sections of your roof should definitely be insulated and they can be done by a well trained installation team with Cellulose fibre insulation in the case of the roof being Iron. If your roof is tile but has exposed beam sections we can insulate them with pumped in Jetmax insulation. A normal Tile raked roof is ok to be insulated with pumped in cellulose fibre. 

Most companies can not install Cellulose insulation because it requires about $60k dollars of specialised equipment and training. So when other companies just send a man out with some batts in a ute, that is not currently required to have any trade qualification or insurance, it is easier to tell a customer that it can not be done because there is not enough space rather than to tell them that you do not have the equipment or trained staff to do the job. Our teams are very qualified to insulate your roof and we would never leave a raked or exposed beam section uninsulated on your home as it will ruin the job and you would be wasting your money insulating the main house if you miss these sections in most cases.

I have insulated 1000’s of raked sections and Exposed beam roofs with very good results. Even just 40mm of cellulose fibre insulation on my hand will stop 1100 deg temp from burning my hand and so you can see how much difference it will make to your roof. In the confined space of a exposed beam section of your roof the flat pipe we use compresses the insulation increasing its density and making it perform better than it normally would at 40mm thick

Comfort zone has even made a proprietary tool for getting into the gap in a exposed beam roof which is normally only the width of the 40mm pattern that the iron or tile sits on. That way we can lift a lot less of your roof and slide the flat pipe into the gap and pump about 3-5m up the roof. This allows us to insulate under solar panels without the need to remove them or the roof.

For more information about roof construction type and how we can insulate them with the pump in cellulose fibre insulation follow this link

A In-ceiling wall or Bulk Head is any vertical surface in your roof space that has a living space behind it. Normally these are found on two storey homes that have a first floor roof protruding the upstairs area like a garage roof. 

Now if you imagine standing in the Roof space of the garage area and look back towards the house, there is a plaster wall in front of you that has the upstairs bedrooms behind it. Of course we can not insulate the whole wall, just the section that is accessible from inside to roof space, normally about 1.5m high at the peck and sloping away to the edge.  

Another example is what we call Sizer trusses sections where the ceiling inside is at an angle but not the same angle as the roof, so you can still crawl though that area. If we do not insulate this wall, all the heat that is stopped from coming through your lower ceiling will be able to come though this wall but then it will be trapped under the insulation in the upstairs ceiling. This will almost certainly ruin the insulation job if the In-ceiling wall was not included and that is why we insulate it as a standard part of our quote with R3.0 Polyester batts

When the main house is insulated, the insulation stops all the heat that used to come down into your home and traps it in the ceiling space. That means that your roof space (sometimes called crawl space) will be hotter for longer. 

Now if you have a garage that shares the same roof space, that extra heat will be coming into your garage ceiling and be hotter for longer. Then that extra heat will be able to travel to the rest of the house through the adjoining walls or doors. That is why we strongly recommend to insulate garages at the same time as when your get your ceiling insulation done and we do a lot of garages every summer that our competitors drop off the quote just to try and make the price cheaper.

Sometimes when you ask for a discount you get a discounted price but if the garage was not mentioned on there quote, it will automatically be dropped off the job details on the day. Be careful when you compare quotes that both quotes include the Garages, in ceiling walls and raked areas. You insulation will not work if they are all not done properly.

If the garage adjoins the house and shares the same roof space (IE you can crawl from in the garage roof though to the rest of the house) and the garage shares a wall with the internal space of your home that will be insulated, then I always strongly recommend to insulate the garage. If you do not insulate the garage it will ruin the job in many cases and it is always cheaper to get it done at the same time, than it is to get us back to do it later.

The first thing to say is that your ceiling of downstairs can be insulated by pumping cellulose fibre insulation into the between floor cavity from below. We need to cut rows of 80mm holes across the floor about 1.5 m from the wall and every 450mm apart. Then we can move across the room about 3 meters and cut another row of holes the same. For example on a room 8m wide and 6m long we would need about 3 rows of 12 holes in the ceiling to insulate it.

Our quote does not include the repairs costs of the holes and depending on the plasterer you use it would cost about $10-20 dollars a hole for the repair and painting.

How much noise this will stop is a very subjective thing, I have insulated many floors over the years and regardless of what the sales people say, it is very hard to stop the bass noise of footsteps as the sound travels through the timber joists and comes out on the ceiling plaster like a drum. The only way to help stop this base noise is to have a rubber isolated ceiling installed after we insulate it but this could be very costly.

The kinds of noise any in floor insulation will stop is the high pitch type of sounds, Talking, Radios, even the scratching from the vacuum but the foot steps thumping will mostly not be affected. Their may be some perceived difference in the foot step noise but only to the extent of the high pitch or scuffing part of the step.

We would not recommend insulating the floor if you have any downlights or exhaust fans in the lower ceiling, these will need to be gaped around and with sound insulation just 1% gaps will reduce any benefit by 50%. If you have downlights then I would recommend removing them before we insulate the between floor area or you will ruin any chance of getting a result. If you do have your downlights removed, leave the holes there until we finish our job as we may be able to use some of them for the pumping of insulation.

Although Cellulose Fibre is by far the best sound insulation for the same depth of product and because it is pumped in it is far more likely to fill the floor space completely with no gaps (unlike sound batts which suffer from gaps during installation and mice borrowing though them over time).

Results from sound insulation can not guaranteed as the nature of sound transference is very difficult to stop and any results are subjective without a full sound engineers report before and after insulating your floor.

For more information about Sound Attenuation

If you have a particularly hot roof you will often have mould form on your ceilings through the house but mainly in the areas where both heat and moisture or poor ventilation is.

Commonly it is asbestos type of roofs or raked ceilings that have these mould problems as the ceiling does get very hot. Mould needs both heat and moisture to grow.

It is easy to tell if ceiling insulation will help prevent your mould problem because just by looking at the ceiling, if you can see any evidence of the straight lines though the mould about 2 inches wide in most cases and about 450mm or 600mm apart. Then insulation will stop your mould problem but you will need to get the existing mould cleaned off after we insulate your ceiling (The lines you can see is where the roof timbers that the ceiling is attached to are effectively insulating that spot now and stopping the heat).

Our quote for pumping Cellulose fibre insulation into your roof space and stopping the heat that causes the mould to grow does not include cleaning the existing mould off your ceiling but once your have it cleaned off, the insulation will stop it coming back and make your home a lot cooler place to live in summer.

Many customers think that the mould on the ceiling is something to do with moisture in the roof space but this is just wrong. Your roof space is very hot during the day and there is no chance of moisture coming though your ceiling to cause mould without your having an actual water stain on the plaster where a roof leak is wetting the area.

Just the normal moisture in the air in your roof crawl space is never going to cause mould on your internal ceiling but sales people who sell expensive roof cavity ventilators will not tell you that. Roof vents are not a solution for mould and will actually cause more problems for you over time as they do leak and are the first thing to be damaged in a storm.

Mostly this is talc powder and that is why it is slippery, be very careful if you are walking on it but also remember to clean it off your shoes before you step onto the roof as it will make walking on the roof or ladder much more dangerous. You might be wonderingg where it came from? 

A lot of pest control companies use talc powder mixed with a pyrethrin poison and the poison evaporates over time but the talc stays there. If you get your roof sprayed with this every year it can build up to quite a slippery layer. If we pump your roof with Cellulose fibre insulation you will never need your roof sprayed with this unstable poison again as the borax (What makes our product fire and vermin resistant) in our product is a stable chemical like salt and never evaporates. 

I suspect this is why pest control companies don't use borax anymore. About 30 years ago Pest control companies used to use borax but as it stays in place until it is eaten by the insects it kills, it lasts forever after you kill the insects in your roof.  There is no repeat business if the poison you used does not evaporate. Just another example of why our insulation can pay for itself over time if you are currently paying $150 a year extra for them to spray your roof, with cellulose insulation you will never need that done again.

Vacuuming the ceiling of a tongue and groove timer ceiling is the only time there might be a real justification that the customer will get a direct benefit from having their ceiling vacuumed but even then we don't recommend it as the dust has taken many years to work its way into the grove and vacuuming the roof space surface will not get that dust out of the grove. The only way I know to fix the problem is to have a tradesperson gap fill each groves from inside the room and then repaint the ceiling.

If you have a normal plaster ceiling, I can not see any direct benefit to your home or insulation if we vacuum your ceiling first, unless it just makes you feel better to know that the ceiling was clean before you put the insulation in. If this is the case I am very happy to quote on vacuuming your ceiling out before we insulate it.

Sales reps get paid to sell stuff and even though we probably could sell a lot more ceiling vacuums by telling customers how much nicer their insulation will be the truth is that unless you intend to vacuum the dust off the surface of your insulation in 5 years time there is probably no point in making sure no dust is under the batts when they go in. 

The exception to the rule is if your roof has a lot of leaves and sticks (normally brought in by rats and mice or blown in out of your valley iron). This should be cleaned up as these are a fire risk. The fire risk would be reduced by installing Cellulose Fibre Insulation more than any other product

Having said that, it is up to you and some customers just like the idea of it being cleaned first.

I would always recommend to remove roof vents when we are installing a Quality Cellulose insulation on your ceiling, especially if they are older than 5 years old, are making noise or not turning in the wind now.  It will make your insulation 0.47 R value more effective in winter (according to the NCC). 

It will also reduce the chance of roof failure and leaks in summer. Removal of the vents on a tile roof is easily done by our team while we are on site if you can supply the tiles (Vents on Iron roofs can not be removed without short sheeting over the hole and this is not something our install team is normally equiped to do). 

We normally just charge $25 a vent on tile roofs for their removal and disposal while we are installing insulation, so if you would like us to advise about that while we are on site please let the office know.

If you have containers in your roof it does not actually mean that your roof is currently leaking, the container may have been put their years ago and the house may have even had a new roof installed since then but our company policy is to not move any containers in a roof just in case. We just insulate around them and normally let you know if we can see that it is still an existing leak. If it is a simple leak to fix IE a broken tile or just a hole where pipes run into the roof, we are happy to make this type of minor repair while we are installing your insulation (you will need to supply a tile for us to replace a broken tile for you). Minor repairs (Tile replacement or silicon to temporarily fix a hole) are at no cost to the customer and just part of our service.

You may have water stains on your ceiling and these will keep coming though paint unless they are painted with stain stopper. I have had many customers buy a old home and had no ceiling stains but then one develops and they are afraid it is a current leak. It could be a current leak but it could just be a old stain that was painted over with normal paint instead of stain stopper. 

When we are in your roof we are alway on the look out for leaks that may damage our insulation in the future and so if we see anything we will definitely let you know.

If you have an existing leak or even just a stain on the ceiling, please let us know before we start installing your insulation installation so that we can have a good look at the area and let you know what can be done about fixing the leak while we are there.

Have a look at this video and see how easy it is to find a leak when you have cellulose fibre insulation and how the cellulose is actually the only insulation that can help protect your home in the case of a small to medium size roof leak.

We do a complete check of your roof inside and out while we are on the roof installing your home insulation (that is why we prefer roof access but if we use the manhole of course we are not on the roof and can not inspect it). The kinds of things we check are listed below and if a minor repair is needed we are very happy to do that for free while on your roof. I would say that at least every second roof we are on needs some kind of repair work done and so it is very common even on brand new houses for us to fix a potential roof problem while on site.  If you have some spare tiles we will replace broken ones for free if we can safely get the old one out or we will put some silicon on it as a temporary repair and let you know about it.

I have fixed 1000's of broken tiles over the years, even on brand new tiles roofs and all kinds of other problems. 

1. 1. 1. Roof surface condition, does the tile need painting to protect it or if it is a iron roof is it rusty

      2. Broken tiles

      3. Damaged roofing iron that may be currently leaking and that we do a temporary repair on while on site installing insulation.

      4. Ridge cap bedding and pointing condition

      5. Asbestos roof condition

      6. Cracked Flashings or flashings that are installed incorrectly.

      7. Roof fixtures like Tile Clips and roof screws

      8. Sarking or anti con blanket condition

      9. Roof vents, spinning correctly and not damages

      10. Toilet vents flashing

      11. Roof fixtures like Foxtel dishes and the pipes that hold them up (commonly these dishes are removed but the pipe is left in place with no cap preventing rain to come in after the dish is removed

      12. Gutters and down pipes for leaves and obstructions, this video compares the difference between quality leaf guards and cheap plastic ones.

      13. Valley condition and the iron, is it rusty or blocked with leaves, Leaves in the valley causes leaks that we can see in your roof while doing our inspection before insulating the roof with cellulose fibre insulation.

      14. Kids toys or balls and other rubbish stuck on the roof

      15. Sky light dome condition and if leaves are trapped above the light or damaged sun rotten plastic

      16. Vermin in the roof, rats mice, possums, snakes

      17. Solar panels, are they clean currently 

      18. Trees causing problems of leaf build up in gutters

      19. Evidence of termites in the roof joists or timbers while we are in the roof

      20. Evidence of rot or dampness from roof leaks

Although none of the above is part of our quote and our inspection of these should not be considered to be the same as a builders inspection, it is always nice to have a extra set of eyes looking out for potential problems on your roof.

Any broken tiles will be replaced while on site if the customer has spare tiles (even if we did not break them upto 10 tiles) and only if they can be removed without damaging the ridge caping or the need to cut a tile to size. If no tile is available we will silicon the damaged area and put the offending tile in the eaves, as this is the safest place for it if it starts to leak in the future.

Cellulose fibre is made from recycled paper and many a child has eaten the pages out of a book. So I think you could safely ingest any cellulose that might end up in your water tank. The nature of cellulose is to float on the top of the water anyway and so even if some got into your water tank it is very unlikely to end up down near the pickup for your water pump which is always at the bottom of the tank.

However it is part of our systems to blow the roof off and remove any cellulose that might have been spilt on the roof during the installation process, including blowing the gutters out. Sometimes this makes a mess down stairs that we also have to clean up but once the job is done there will be no more cellulose blowing around. 

The chemical in used to make the cellulose fire retardant is actually a essential mineral that the body needs for healthy skin and bones, so in the very diluted state that it would be if any washed into your water tank it would not cause any adverse health problems. You can even buy vitamin supplements with boron in it because it is essential for healthy bones.

I would be concerned about the fibre glass batts that some companies use if you are collecting water as the glass particles could wash into your water tanks and are not easily ingested by your body, this includes anti con blanket. Please make sure that none of that is left on your roof or if you currently have it I would recommend a quality water filter before drinking the water. Glass particles will sink in the water and will end up in your drinking cup. Glass has no place to go in the body and it not a mineral that the body needs.

If you have tank water it would be best not to use fibre glass batts or Anticon blanket. I often see fibre glass from Anticon blanket insulation overhanging into the gutters and so I would be worried about this if I needed the water for drinking.

We have to work in all kinds of weather but if it is raining very hard and you do not have a good access to the area though the manhole, we may need to rebook the installation time. 

In the last 5 years this has only happened about 3 times as we normally only need a very small break in the rain to get into a roof.  Once in the roof with the hose then even if it is raining during the job we can often have the hose come into the roof safely without letting the rain in when we are finished. 

If your roof is a raked or exposed beam roof we will need to have a fine day (cloudy is actually better than sunny) and it is better to have not much wind as we do not want the roof sheets being blown around on the roof. We screw them down as we lift them and take all kinds of precautions but it is better if it is not to windy.

As for heat it is always hot but if it is a 40 plus day we will start earlier and take more breaks but we will still get it done.

We have 4 types of insurance cover at Comfort Zone Insulation

1) Trade insurance to cover any property damage 

2) Public Liability 10,000,000

3) Work Cover for our staff

4) Full comprehensive insurance on the installation truck

I quote to complete the job properly and not have to come back and fix it. I also don't use subcontractors as a lot of the bigger companies will just contract the job out to the lowest bidder and the subcontractor will win the job often at less than the cost of the product to do the job and then just use less insulation. With batts they just tear a R 3 batt in half and with cellulose the just pump less in to save some money. That is why you will often here people saying that the cellulose insulation needs to be topped up but if it is installed properly it will never need to be fixed.

They get away with this because most people have never looked in there roof and may never intend to, most people also have no expectation at to how much difference insulation will make and so if they notice some difference they will think “well I guess that it is working”. They will never get the same house insulated with a different product by a different team and so they will never know how much better it would be if they had paid to have it done properly.

My grandmother always said that you should trust a tradesman or professional to know what they are worth and you really would not want the cheapest lawyer to defend you if you had to go to court would you.

If it is a new build we want to install the insulation in the ceiling after the ceiling is all in and the electrical fit out is done, it can be before the cornices is finished. If it is the walls that are to be done with batts then the external walls need to be done after lockup but before the internal plaster is put in, just be careful to make sure the bracing boards if installed internally are insulated first.

Most batt companies will say that they can “String up” the batts before the plaster but having inspected 1000’s of insulation jobs done like this over the years I can tell you that you will loose a lot of the insulation benefit if you do the job this way. There is just no way to know if you have gaps in the job after the plaster is up unless you do the job from above. Just 5% gaps will reduce your thermal benefit by as much as 70% according to the NCC.

It is your roof but it is our ladder and so of course we can not stop you accessing your roof BUT we will insist that you can not use our equipment for WHS reasons. You would not be covered if you fell from one of our ladders or fell off your roof after gaining access from our ladder. So I am sorry but we just can not take the risk, Roofs are dangerous and a fall from just 2.5m can kill you. If you use our ladder without authorisation we will not be responsible for any losses incurred, personal or property and you may die.

Please do not use our equipment.

If you have a small job you want done that will take a few minutes while we are there we are happy to help but we are not equiped to clean gutters safely and so the best we can do is advise you about their condition.

The truth is that you probably won’t, that is why you should get the job done by the best company and not the cheapest company. Even when you look in the roof you have no basis for comparison and so it is very hard to know if you are looking at a good job or a average one. 

At least with our company you can ask to see some of the photos of the job when it is finished, our teams will normally volunteer to show you the job they have done because we are very proud of our work and most of the time customers never see it.

In this roof the insulation installers did not even take the fibre glass batts out of the bags, they just left them in the roof space and the customer did not even know that they had never been installed properly. That is why we insist on lots of photos from our installers.

Unless other payment arrangements have been made we do not charge a deposit on jobs under $8000 (Over this you will be invoiced for 50% deposit on acceptance and booking). Then when the job is completed, the paperwork and photos come back to the office for a final check before we send the invoice out. It doesn't happen often but I am very happy to send the installers back if I think something is not right on the photos before I send the invoice.

After you receive the invoice, it will have our EFT details on it and we would appreciate it if you could pay it promptly or as dated, normally within a few days.

Of course all cash payments need to be banked but it is always nice to know I have been paid on completion and that is worth something to me. If you would prefer to pay in cash please let me know before the installation so that I don't send the team to your job on a Friday afternoon, just in case there is a pub on the way back to the factory. 

My mum is on the pension and so I know it can be tight for a project this size, I would be happy to offer some discount if possible but I normally just give my best price up front.

We do not increase the quoted price ever, if we have started the job. If we get there and it turns out that something was missed or the size is wrong for some reason, I will talk to you about this before we actually start putting insulation in. We may need to lift the roof before we find a potential problem but if you are not happy for us to proceed we will just put the roof back down, do a roof inspection as normal and leave without charging you anything. 

Basically if their is something that would make the job dearer that we could only see once lifting the roof then we consider that the same as providing a free quote and leave happy. If you ever want to proceed in the future the quote is still there and we would be happy to book it in.

Sometimes weather stock or even equipment let us down on site and so I am very happy to come back another day if we need to because of something like that and the quote will not change.

Occasionally a part of a roof will already be insulated when we lift it and then we will just take some photos, advise you of its condition and discount the quote by the area not done.

Sometimes it may be insulated not very well and we might change the quote to a top up and that may result in us discounting the job for you in some cases too

As long as it is a standard horizontal ceiling underneath the solar panels (I mean the plaster inside your home is horizontal), inside the home, then they normally cause no issue. When the roof is a flat roof or the ceiling inside is at an angle as in the case of a Raked or Exposed beam ceiling, this makes it a little harder.

We do have equipment that can pump in from either end of the solar panels if we can lift a sheet of iron or tiles beside the area that they are bolted down but we do not touch the solar panels ever!. In the very rare case that we can not get access to a section it will be discounted off the quote and you will be advised on the day so that if you ever did remove them for some reason we could come back and do that area.

Another note is that at least the area under solar panels is actually in the shade and normally a bit cooler in the summer than the rest of the roof.

SARKING is not an insulator of any quality in my opinion, one of the deceptions with it is that it stops condensation but I can assure you the condensation just forms on the bottom of the Sarking just the same as it forms on the bottom of the iron. If your roof was going to form condensation having more ventilation would help stop it forming but sarking and anticon blanket block air flow and ventilation of your roof space. Also any moisture in a roof is only there until 10am when the roof gets hot again and it evaporates fully, so I don’t recommend sarking  for any reason. 

The other thing that makes sarking totally a waste of money is how trades people insist on tearing holes in it to gain access to your roof instead of cutting it neatly and repairing the cut properly when finished. Have a look at the damage caused here to roof sarking and the customer never even knows this is being done by there electrician, solar installer or pay TV guy.

As far as stopping heat goes by reflecting radiation, unless you need sunscreen when you are inside your home sarking is not reflecting any radiation. It is actually quite legal for me to quote a insulation in terms of its total system value and that is why at least on paper it appears to do something but in your roof it is just going to make it harder to find a roof leak before it causes serious damage.

Just wrap your insulation that works on reflecting heat around your boiled kettle and see how long it takes for the heat to get though. If you do that with anticon you will see that it is not very effective against passive or convected heat.

Anti con only best use if to stop the potential of fire embers getting into an iron roof from leaves burning in the gutters.

Of the 1000’s of roofs I have been in the ones with anticon are actually hotter than the ones without it and that is a fact. The reason is that the blanket blocks the air gap around the edge of the roof (this is good for stopping burning embers getting into your roof) but it does make your roof hotter.

Firstly can we just agree that all roof leaks are bad and all insulation are not designed to stop roof leaks but if you have a roof leak, an insulation that reduces the potential damage caused and assisted with its diagnosis of where the leak is would be preferable. Cellulose fibre insulation is the only insulation that will hold a leak in one spot and stop it spreading over the ceiling. This can limit the damaged plaster and carpet to just one room. 

All the batt insulations on the market will let water run freely through them and allow the water to come into the house in mutiple rooms. Worst still hydrophobic insulation like all batts may allow the water to run into the eaves or a wall cavity where you may not know about the leak for years and by that time the damage bill could be substantial. The other problem is that by the time you get into the roof to find the leak, batts make it very hard to find because the water sits on the bottom under the insulation leaving no indication of where the water might have come in. The cellulose fibre will have a clear discolouration where the water came in even if it has dried out already.

Cellulose fibre insulation is the only insulation that is hydroscopic and so absorbs the water keeping the damage in one place but then allowing it to dry out fully in the situation of a small to medium leak situation you may not even know the leak is there as it will just dry out the next day. 

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So is cellulose fibre insulation safe for individuals with asthma or sensitivities? Absolutely! Our insulation has been installed by people who have asthma and been enjoyed by countless customers with asthma too. In fact my own son, who has been safely working with us for years despite having only one lung. He does get dirty but nothing a little soap will not fix and mostly it is dirt from inside a persons roof.

What about skin irritation? Unlike fibreglass insulation, our cellulose fibre insulation has larger fibre sizes, significantly reducing the likelihood of causing skin irritation or itchiness upon contact. The larger fibres are more comfortable and gentle on the skin, allowing for a more pleasant installation experience.

Moreover, it's worth noting that cellulose fibre is derived from plant sources. Our bodies are naturally equipped to break down plant fibres, ensuring a biocompatible and harmonious interaction with the insulation. In contrast, rock fibres found in glass batts cannot be broken down by the body, potentially causing discomfort or irritation.

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